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My reason
for coming to Australia was to try to learn f
or myself, and not from other men's books, what
a Songline was - and how it worked. Obviously, I was not
going to get to the heart of the matter, nor would I want
to. I had asked a friend in Adelaide if she knew of an
expert. She gave me Arkady's phone number.
"Do you mind if I use my notebook?"
I asked "Go ahead."
I pulled from my pocket a black, oilcloth-covered
notebook, its pages held in place with an elastic band.
"Nice notebook," he said.
"I used to get them in Paris," I said. "But now they
don't make them any more."
"Paris?" he repeated, raising an eyebrow as if he'd
never heard anything so pretentious.
Then he winked and went on talking.
[…]
For lunch we had beer and a salami sandwich.
The beer made me sleepy, so I slept until four.
When I woke, I started rearranging the caravan
as a place to work in.
There was a plyboard top which pulled out over the second
bunk to make a desk. There was even a swiveling office
chair. I put my pencils in a tumbler and my Swiss Army
knife beside them. I unpacked some exercise pads and,
with the obsessive neatness that goes with the beginning
of a project, I made three neat stacks of my 'Paris'
notebooks. In France, these notebooks are known as
carnets moleskines: 'moleskine', in this case, being its
black oilcloth binding. Each time I went to Paris, I would
buy a fresh supply from a papeterie in the Rue de
l'Ancienne Comédie. The pages were squared and the
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